I was thrilled and honored to be invited as a speaker at the 2024 Warrendale Wagyu Conference. Held in partnership with the British Wagyu Association (BWA), this two-day event from September 19th to 20th was packed with great discussions, networking, and memorable moments. With over 250 delegates attending, it was clear this year’s conference was a major success.
Day One: Innovation and Growth
The first day kicked off at the stunning Forest Pines Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort in North Lincolnshire.
Richard Saunders, Chief of the British Wagyu Association and now Chair of the Wagyu Council, was an exceptional host, coordinating the entire event seamlessly. His leadership helped set the stage for an engaging and productive conference. During the first session, Richard talked about the impressive growth of the UK Wagyu sector. He shared that Wagyu births had increased by 23% this year. Hearing those numbers really brought home how much momentum Wagyu has gained in the UK. It’s incredible to see the hard work and commitment of everyone involved.
One of the highlights was watching Jim Bloom, the founder of Warrendale Wagyu, receive the King’s Award for Innovation. As someone who’s truly passionate about Wagyu, it was inspiring to see Jim’s dedication and effort recognized. His work has had such a huge impact on the UK Wagyu industry, and the award was a testament to that.
Jim Bloom, President of Warrendale Wagyu, receiving the King’s Award for Innovation from Jim Dick OBE, Lord Lieutenant of East Yorkshire.
Sharing My Journey as a Meat Sommelier in Japan
When it was my turn to speak, I shared my Wagyu journey, starting with my studies as a Meat Sommelier in Argentina, to specializing in Wagyu in Japan, the spiritual home of this incredible beef. Along the way, I’ve had the privilege of reviewing more than 150 high-end Wagyu steakhouses in Japan. From there, I became an ambassador for the World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants and a panel chair at the World Steak Challenge, giving me the chance to deeply explore the world of Wagyu.
In my talk, I focused on how Japanese producers create value around their Wagyu, and it’s not just about the meat itself—it’s about storytelling. In Japan, producers weave narratives around their Wagyu, highlighting things like nature, origin, and artisanal production. This storytelling can help elevate Wagyu in the UK, where consumers are becoming more interested in the story behind the food they’re eating.
I also shared some insights from my four years living in Japan. I’ve seen firsthand how the Japanese take a steak and turn it into a full-blown Wagyu experience. Value creation happens at every level, from a non-Wagyu steak priced at $20-$30, to a premium Wagyu experience that can cost over $500. And the most important part of that value? The farmers, who put so much care into raising the cattle.
Slide prepared and presented by Lean Gentini
Industry Leaders on the Future of Wagyu
The day continued with some really insightful talks from other industry leaders. Professor David Hughes gave a fantastic presentation on the changing narratives around the British meat industry, using data to support a positive outlook on beef consumption, even with a few challenges ahead.
Fred Smith from Flat Iron also shared their success story. Since opening their first restaurant in 2012, they’ve built a brand focused on offering great steak at reasonable prices. They’ve grown to 16 restaurants and a turnover of £50 million. It was inspiring to see how their emphasis on quality and value has led to such growth.
Tom Richardson, Managing Director of Warrendale, discussed their plans for the future of Wagyu in the UK. Their long-term partnerships with retailers like Aldi, and their focus on expanding into international markets, show just how much potential the industry has. Warrendale is aiming to process 1,000 head per week—a huge leap forward.
James Thornton, CEO of Warrendale Farms, rounded out the talks by discussing their commitment to supporting their farmer partners. As someone who’s worked closely with Wagyu producers in Japan, I appreciated hearing how Warrendale is building a sustainable, farmer-first model in the UK.
Q&A Panel, from left to right: James Thornton, David Hughes, Lean Gentini, Nick Rose (Oxbury Bank), and Chris Dickinson.
Day Two: Diving Into Wagyu Production
On the second day, we visited Dovecote Park’s processing facility to see the MIJ (Meat Image Japan) carcass camera in action. It was fascinating to learn about the technology used to ensure Wagyu beef meets the highest quality standards.
We also took a trip to the Thompson Family’s Scurf Dyke Farm, where they manage a 1,500-head unit of Wagyu cattle. Seeing the scale of their operation and their commitment to innovation was really impressive. The workshops on dairy production, calf rearing, and meat quality gave us a hands-on understanding of the entire Wagyu lifecycle in the UK.
Reflecting on the Conference
Looking back on the Warrendale Wagyu Conference, I’m filled with admiration for the people driving the UK Wagyu industry forward. There was a strong blend of tradition, innovation, and sustainability in every session, and the sense of community among farmers, producers, and retailers was inspiring.
The future of Wagyu in the UK is looking brighter than ever, and I’m so grateful to have been a part of this incredible community. With innovative practices, strong partnerships, and a commitment to delivering top-quality Wagyu beef, I believe the UK is on its way to making a significant impact on the global Wagyu market.
A huge thanks to Richard Saunders, Warrendale Wagyu, and the entire team for their incredible hospitality and coordination.
The event was a fantastic experience!
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